Styling The Man

Blow-Up

blow-upBLOW-UP – Released in 1966, Blow-up made an indelible debut in swinging London and was immediately hailed as a masterpiece!

In his seminal film Blow-up, writer director Michelangelo Antonioni examines the existential nature of reality interpreted through photography, pantomime and landscape paintings. Blow-up centers around a young stylish, successful London photographer with big blue eyes and a head full of chestnut hair, name Thomas-who lives a life of cynicism and melancholy. This superbly directed mystery, was Antonioni’s first production on English soil and it became a classic from the moment it hit the big screen. Antonioni injects heavy doses of deviltry with sinister overtones throughout Blow-up, depicting pubic hair and strong nudity to American audiences-at a time when no other mainstream English-language movie had attempted it. Blow-up even got away with not being rated as a film for mature audiences.

During a stroll one day through a local park, on a quiet, mildly breezy, slightly overcast afternoon, Thomas catches sight of a mysterious couple acting playfully and flirtatious. Amused by the their apparent bliss, he stands behind a tree from a distance and proceeded to take a series of photographs, in an almost voyeuristic manner. Back at his studio, struck with curiosity, the young photographer develops the roll of film, only to discover he may have been the witness to a murder in the park and inadvertently photographed it. The plot thickens, when it soon becomes apparent, that someone from the scene of the crime, followed Thomas back to his studio, determined to retrieve the film through whatever means necessary.

Blow-up is truly a masterpiece and David Hemmings who plays the young Mod photographer, gives an outstanding performance-one of the best in his illustrious career. There are some priceless and revealing moments in Blow-up you have to pay close attention to in order to fully understand Thomas. The interactions between him and his neighbor Patricia, played by Sarah Miles, who lives with a young painter across the way. Another important scene is where we find Thomas in the park at early dawn, watching college kids play tennis with an imaginary ball. These powerful scenes give us an important glimpse into Thomas’s desires and in my opinion, sets Michelangelo Antonioni apart as a master storyteller.

BLOW UP from Ranjith Daluwatta

“People thought i was dead. But I wasn’t. I was just directing The A-Team”

David Hemmings

David Hemmings in Blow-up

 


TuTu

Miles Davis + Irving PennMILES DAVIS – When master photographer Irving Penn and Master trumpeter Miles Davis hung out together for the first time, it became a collaboration, in the photography and music world, of epic proportions.

This stunning photograph is one of my favorite images from that encounter between these genuiues. It was for Davis’s long awaited album TuTu, in 1986. The controversial but memorable TuTu was written in tribute to Archbishop Desmond Tutu, the first black Anglican Archbishop of Cape Town, South Africa. These two icons whose paths had never crossed before, clearly had a natural chemistry in the studio, as expressed movingly through this series of powerful images-and why not? Miles and Penn were masters of their craft and were experiencing changing times in the 80s.

TuTu was the birth of a new kind of cool-mostly duets. It was heavily inspired by mid-80s R&B and funk, with heavy use of organ like synthesizers and drum machines. Full Nelson is a pretty special track and a favorite on the album. It alludes to then imprisoned South African politician, young Nelson Mandela. Davis originally wanted pop icon Prince to be on the album, but it never ended up working out. Word has it, Prince, mr perfectionist, recorded his tracks, but in the end didn’t think they were up to scratch with the rest of the album’s material.

Davis ended up collaborating with legendary baseman Marcus Miller on TuTu and finally at the end of 1986, the album was released. (and the Warner Bros brass couldn’t have been happier). TuTu became an instant classic upon its debut-winning Davis the Grammy for Best Jazz Instrumental Performance on an album, in 1987. Brief, but notable appearances on TuTu were made by violinist Michal Urbaniak, Brazilian percussionist Paulinho Da Costa, keyboardist and our friend from the west coast, mr George Duke, among other musicians. For TuTu’s album cover, this was the image chosen from the series.

Black and Blue

A CLASSIC COMBINATION – A well put together black and blue combination is like a long distance runner-It is simple and effortless with a lot of staying power!

Black and blue make a classic, harmonious combination and young designer M Ryan Villarina wears it to perfection. If you’re thinking of this debonair duo as your next outfit, remember since that these are both strong colors, one has to be dominant. In his case, Ryan went all blue on the bottom which proves brilliant, simply because it doesn’t break up the flow of the eyes leading towards his face. Ryan then introduces a cafe biker jacket on top, continuing visual rhythm.

Ryan’s introduction of the classic white shirt, automatically provides latitude in the neckwear department, which he took advantage of by adding this striking floral pattern neck tie, providing the ensemble with a much needed punch.

M Ryan villarinaRyan VillarinaRyan Villarina

M Ryan Villarina

Ryan VillarinaRyan Villarina Ryan VillarinaRyan Villarina's DreamRyan Villarinastyling the man

Gordon Parks

Gordon ParksTHE ORIGINAL RENAISSANCE MAN - Gordon Parks was one of the most influential and prolific photographers of the twentieth century, whose artistic vision was boundless.

During a multi-faceted career that spanned over six decades in America and across the world, master photographer Gordon Parks was the embodiment of the Renaissance man. He was cool, confident and one of the most stylish men when it came to his ensembles. Born in Fort Scott, Kansas, the youngest of 15, Parks successfully wore several creative hats throughout his artistically diverse career. He was an accomplished essayist, novelist, poet, screenwriter, composer and was the first African American to write, produce, direct and score a film. He was also the first African American to work at The Office of War Information and The Farm Security Administration (FSA), experiences he credits largely with influencing and informing his photojournalism approach and integrity in his work.

One morning in 1948, after a brief stint at vogue, Parks took his portfolio to Wilson Hicks, then picture editor of Life Magazine and asked for a job. To Parks’ surprise, he was offered a job-making him not only the magazine’s first African American staff photographer and writer, but also its youngest staff member to be assigned to its Paris bureau. In fact, even before he was officially on the magazine’s staff, Parks was sent to Europe to do assignments, a move the magazine wouldn’t normally do for a young photographer just starting out. His first assignment for life was a photographic essay on 16 year old Harlem gang leader Red Jackson, during a time when gang wars were on the rise in Harlem. The essay was published, winning Parks much widespread recognition and praises. Parks also had an incredible ear for music and with the encouragement of a friend, while on assignment in Paris for Life Magazine from 1949 to 1951, he wrote and composed concerto for piano and orchestras.

In 1969, Parks’ became the first black artist to direct a major film in Hollywood and it was The Learning Tree-an autobiographical novel he wrote, about a coming of age adolescent black boy in rural America. In the 70s, he served as editorial director for Essence Magazine from its debut in 1970 for the next three years. Many credit him as being one of the magazine’s founders. Around the same time of his gig with Essence, Parks subsequently made the cult-classic action flicks Shaft and Shaft’s Big Score. The first movie I saw that Parks directed, starred Roger E Mosely who brilliantly portrays talented, but troubled blues and folk singer Leadbetter, nicked name Leadbelly. (Notice a young Ernie Hudson in his movie debut.) Every time I watch this movie, I discover something new and exciting. Only a photographer with a master talent like his, could have directed Leadbelly the way he did, especially with the way he used that Southern lighting he knew so well. Leadbelly has all the elements of a Gordon Parks project, a great storyline, vibrant colors, wonderful lighting, all set against the rural countryside.

Gordon Parks had a special feeling for humanity and was always involved in things that were happening to people. No matter what color they were, whether they were Indians, or blacks, the poor white person or anyone who he though got a bad shake. His phenomenal body of work represents Americans of all levels of society-from the rural and laboring of the South to the wealthy and leisured of Park Ave. His powerful images of the civil rights movement, racial segregation and poverty throughout the South, remain some of the most vivid and important images in telling America’s social legacy. From a very young age Parks was very strong-willed and independent minded.  He refused to be defeated by racism, poverty and especially gang violence, which he saw as the enemy. In 1997 in his book Half Past Autumn, he wrote, “in my youth, violence became my enemy …Photography, writing, music and film are the weapons I use against it…”

Whether it was through his photographs, the movies he wrote and directed, his beautiful books, concertos he wrote applying his style of reading music or his brilliant poetry, Gordon Roger Parks was a man of indomitable courage, who was always searching for a deeper meaning of life.

Half Past AutumnGordon ParksMuhammad AliBy Gordon ParksGordon Parks for VogueBy Gordon ParksBy Gordon ParksBy Gordon ParksBy Gordon ParksBy Gordon ParksElla Watson, 1942

The Gordon Parks Foundation

The high rise

Styling The Man

Location, location, location

THE CLIP – With the recent resurgence of interest in men’s tailored clothing, the tie clip finds itself front and center of the sartorial spotlight. Here are a few solid suggestions to achieve handsomeness.

A tie clip’s main function is to hold your necktie in place, so there is no need for one if you’re wearing your favorite three piece-suit. This task is handled effortlessly by the suit’s vest, which is essentially the gentlemen’s corset. It holds your tie steadily and snuggly, even more so than a tie clip can. Unless of course you’re wearing the double breast vest which has a very low cut in it’s V. While tie clips add style and an extra layer to your ensemble, you never want these fancy accessories to create attention to their attractiveness, but instead how they pull your ensemble together. Matter of fact, they should be nothing more than a second thought on the mind of an admirer.

When it comes to the tie clip’s location on the necktie, men tend to look more debonair when their clips are slightly skewed, as though little to no effort had been put into its placement. Another important tip to remember, is that tie clips are eye-catching ornaments, so you should opt for the smaller ones-they often make a more handsome overall impression.  Can you imagine a large tie clip in such a prominent location in relation to your face not stealing the spotlight? Favoring them higher up on your tie not only distracts from your overall aesthetic, but more importantly, they draw the admirer’s attention in, before you and the admirer can lock eyes.

The goal is to smoothly escort the eyes of the looker, from your feet up towards your face. This is easily achieved when you place your clip slightly above the jacket’s top button or in some cases between the top and its middle button. This way you’ll look chic. Besides, there’s nothing more heart breaking than to see a beautifully woven, handmade silk or wool tie, being assaulted by an attention getting, big tie clip.

Art by – Ryan Villarina for Styling The Mantie clip too highperfect placement

Jean Paul Goude

JUNGLE FEVER – I’ve always been attracted to the bold, paradigm-shattering work of Jean Paul Goude.

Through his visually stimulating, socially conscious and sometimes provocative photographs and advertising films he directed,  Jean Paul Goude speaks a powerful language of acceptance and toleration. In constant dialog with the French avant-garde, Goude’s work is visibly influenced by girls of color and French colonialism-a result of having grown up in a predominantly black neighborhood.

Between 1968-69, Goude was offered a position as Art Director of Esquire, which he accepted-prompting an immediate relocation to New York City. It was at the tail end of the disco era when the young graphic designer met  Grace Jones, a then fresh faced model with big aspirations, who became his muse and mother of his son. For the next three decades, Goude worked on Jones’ commercials, her album covers, music videos, and countless photo-shoots, producing some memorable and thought-provoking works. In 1983, Goude published Jungle Fever, a beautifully illustrated book in full color with Goude’s sometimes outlandish and sexually explicit photos, artwork, drawings and collages. He highlights Latino and African-American models along with everyday people in the most colorful concepts, that are uniquely Goude.

When it was first published over thirty years ago, Jungle Fever broke new ground by exploring traditional concepts and pushing them beyond the bounds of appropriateness and cultural norms. Chances of finding a copy today in perfect condition are slim to none. Depending on what state of affairs it’s in, a copy can fetch anywhere from $200 up to $700 dollars. But, it’s a collector’s item which only appreciates in value with time and is worth every bit of your hard earned cents. On a side note-does anyone remember the super model Toukie Smith who was a long time partner of Robert De Niro, with whom she has two sons? Well, there are some fascinating scribbles by her in this book you’ll find interesting.

Grace Jones ©Jean Paul Goude

junglefever

Jungle Fever ©Jean Paul Goude & Grace Jones

Goude & Grace

Mory Kaba

Dear Sexy Socks...THE OTHER PRINCE OF STYLE – Mory Kaba is one of the most charismatic dressers in New York City, hands down. He truly appreciates the rich history and colorful tradition of men’s clothes and each day he dresses for work, it is with hope it inspire others.  As those who know him will attest, he has an excellent sense of taste.

I met Mory in the early part of 2005 and can still remember that day as if it were only yesterday. I remember how impressed I was by his unique charm and his graceful manner, and the fact he spoke five different languages. When it comes to the subject of dressing up, Mory knows his stuff as well as anyone I know and is always willing to share some of that knowledge. Every suit Mory owns is constructed with working button-holes on each sleeve.  At home, the man’s wardrobe is a treasure trove of handsome, Italian worsted wool suits, handmade neck-ties and some of the finest constructed leather shoes. In my many years of knowing Mory, I can’t remember once, ever seeing him not well dressed.

I recently photographed Moray at Tincati, a men’s Italian clothing store he manager over on Madison Ave. It is four floors of great product, each of which had a lot to offer, today’s man! Mory Kaba Custom made frabic woven, specially for TincatiItalian shirt fabric - Phototography by Charles David for ©Styling The ManMory Kaba - Phototography by Charles David for ©Styling The ManChicken Feet stitch - Phototography by Charles David for ©Styling The ManMory KabaMory Kaba - Phototography by Charles David for ©Styling The ManMory Kaba - Phototography by Charles David for ©Styling The ManMory Kaba Mory Kaba

If you are out to describe the truth, leave elegance to the tailor – Albert Einstein

Billie Holiday

I CRIED FOR YOU - Billie-Holiday-Lady-Sings-the-BluesBorn Eleanora Harris in Baltimore Maryland, Billie Holiday was one of the greatest Jazz vocalist of her time and a legend whose music has aged timelessly, long after her death.

Billie and Ella were the women whose music my parents played constantly on their stereo and I still listen to them this very day. When I was a young teenager, Billie Holiday’s voice, was like nothing I’d ever heard before, and the lady, when in top form, was incomparable. I remember seeing her picture for the first time on the LP jacket of Lady Sings The Blues and how smitten a 13-year-old I was. Billie had the most striking face with a gorgeous set of round eyes and soft cheekbones that made me melt.

Inside Billie, stired profound sensitivity and pain, and beneath the pain, she showed a toughness that made her so unbelievably attractive. Even as a teenager I some how understood the magnitude of the pain this brave women’s heart felt, as her music expressed an incredible depth of emotion that spoke of hard times and injustice as well as triumph. Billie’s career cooled somewhat in the later 1940s, due in part to personal problems including her mother’s death, alcohol abuse and a growing heroin addiction. After the death of her dear friend, legendary saxophonist Lester Young in 1959, feeling as though she had nothing to live for, Billie died at the young age of forty-four.

Though her career was relatively short and often erratic, Billie Holiday bestowed upon this world a body of music as great as any vocalist before or since.

Billie Holiday

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